With the winter weather upon us the natural acidity, clean minerality and earthy fruit of this native grape makes it a perfectly robust partner for all of our festive feasts ...

Mille e Una Notte Contessa Entellina Doc 2006, Donnafugata

Stunning. Balsamic notes: woody, dried herbs with a dash of spice. Elegant and complex. Refined without being uptight. The finish is complete, fresh and clean. www.Libertywine.co.uk

Alire Igt 2009, Fatascia

(50% Syrah). Modern in its use of new oak, its use of Syrah and its forward, fruity approach. But it works. The nose is fresh with a clean acidity and very focused. Gorgeous palate of chocolate and a nice finish.

www.wine-searcher.com

Aynat Sicilia Igt 2008, Viticultori Associati Soc. Coop

A lot of oak - very much in the modern style. But it has good acidity and superb extracts which can take it.

www.viticultoriassociati.it

Lu Patri Nero d’Avola Sicilia Igt 2008, Baglio del Cristo di Campobello

Another of the international style… oak is very evident but well-done. The wine is round, fresh and appealing.

www.venditavinoitaliano.it

Alhambra Rosso Sicilia Igp 2009, Spadafora dei Principi di Spadafora

Unoaked. Nose is fruity and fresh, the acidity is crisp and perfect. A clean, edgy wine.

www.wine-searcher.com

In fact, in the local dialect, “Arneis” means rascal, due to its unreliability. Yet, it somehow has stubbornly dug its roots into the unsuitable sandy soils in Roero, between the towns of Bra and Alba, and produces one of the most original and singular taste sensations. There are several styles being produced, but a well-made Arneis will share the common denominators of a well-structured and complex yet mysteriously uncomplicated body, refreshing acidity, and a long, solid finish. Always drunk very young, its an aromatic rainbow of white blossoms, camomile, apricots, pears, the pulpy white flesh of a green apple, ripe damson, dried herbs, warm hay, an unidentifiable touch of savoury, and its very distinctive perfume of almonds. It does wonders for many cheeses, pasta dishes and, believe it or not, is the absolute perfect match for asparagus.

The Piedmont producers are a bit divided in opinion about Arneis. It suffers from the hangover of a previous bad reputation…from, as usual the 1970’s and the days of sweet bulk wines. Then, the grape was not taken very seriously and was nearly abandoned, until some of the producers figured out that they would need some good whites to counterbalance their predominant red production. Don’t forget, Piedmont is the land of Barbera, Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto: the Italian red icons. A white wine from here has to be rather special to hold its own. Arneis certainly manages this beautifully. 

TWO TO TRY

Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 2009, Fine and Rare Wines, www.frw.co.uk

Signore Giocosa is the premier producer of Arneis. Unmissable. His Arneis is always delicious, distinctive and unique.

Malvirà Roero Arneis 2008, Waitrose Wine Direct, www.waitrosewine.com

Arneis in the classic style, by the Damonte brothers: meadow flowers, hay, fruit, almonds, all presented on a crisp, minerally palate.

Andy Muscat at New Generation Wines also has a good one ... call him.

The Nero di Troia grape has escaped a tragic end thanks to its rescue by Puglia’s heroic vignerons. It's an epic tale ... ! If we are to believe the legend, the Nero di Troia grape was brought to the hills of Puglia by Diomedes, the Greek hero who destroyed Troy. An auspicious beginning indeed, but one which was muddled in obscurity, as the variety has traditionally only been used in local blends. In an Italy where grapes and wine were “foodstuffs”, the low-yielding variety just couldn’t hold its own. But now, in a region still dominated by Primitivo and Negroamaro grapes, and to a certain extent the ubiquitous “international” varieties, its organoleptic features are exactly what the modern wine-makers want. Francesco Liantonio of Torrevento in Corato, near Bari, was the first to champion Nero di Troia, “in purezza”  (single-varietal). Many of his neighbours have now followed suite and the results are admirable. The Nero di Troia is generally a medium-bodied, moderately acidic, alcoholic and deeply coloured, tannic wine marked by a salty minerality, and notes of spices, violets and red berries. It is a late-harvesting grape (early October) and this long, slow hang-time translates into fresher, more complex wines capable of ageing. When it has been nurtured to its full expression, it is able to appease the most demanding of Gods. Imagine:  Ripe mulberries, cherries and plums. Smoky balsamic vinegar aged in juniper barrels. A mossy carpet of undergrowth under a canopy of dewy ferns. Chalky sand beaches and salty sea sprays…

TWO TO TRY

Torrevento Torre del Falco Nero di Troia IGT 2007 

 Stunning (but then so are all of the reds from Torrevento - especially the un-oaked reds). A ruby robe and a fresh nose of blueberries, and chocolate-covered cherries. The palate was well-structured, with lively acidity. Waitrose sells this - go get some.

www.Torrevento.it

Alberto Longo Le Cruste Nero di Troia della Puglia IGT 2006

 This brew is rich and intensely structured, with notes of violet, tobacco, a complex palate with mature tannins and a good finish. Available from www.Everywine.co.uk.

The Nero di Troia grape has escaped a tragic end thanks to its rescue by Puglia’s heroic vignerons. It's an epic tale ... ! If we are to believe the legend, the Nero di Troia grape was brought to the hills of Puglia by Diomedes, the Greek hero who destroyed Troy. An auspicious beginning indeed, but one which was muddled in obscurity, as the variety has traditionally only been used in local blends. In an Italy where grapes and wine were “foodstuffs”, the low-yielding variety just couldn’t hold its own. But now, in a region still dominated by Primitivo and Negroamaro grapes, and to a certain extent the ubiquitous “international” varieties, its organoleptic features are exactly what the modern wine-makers want. Francesco Liantonio of Torrevento in Corato, near Bari, was the first to champion Nero di Troia, “in purezza”  (single-varietal). Many of his neighbours have now followed suite and the results are admirable. The Nero di Troia is generally a medium-bodied, moderately acidic, alcoholic and deeply coloured, tannic wine marked by a salty minerality, and notes of spices, violets and red berries. It is a late-harvesting grape (early October) and this long, slow hang-time translates into fresher, more complex wines capable of ageing. When it has been nurtured to its full expression, it is able to appease the most demanding of Gods. Imagine:  Ripe mulberries, cherries and plums. Smoky balsamic vinegar aged in juniper barrels. A mossy carpet of undergrowth under a canopy of dewy ferns. Chalky sand beaches and salty sea sprays…

TWO TO TRY

Torrevento Torre del Falco Nero di Troia IGT 2007 

 Stunning (but then so are all of the reds from Torrevento - especially the un-oaked reds). A ruby robe and a fresh nose of blueberries, and chocolate-covered cherries. The palate was well-structured, with lively acidity. Waitrose sells this - go get some.

www.Torrevento.it

Alberto Longo Le Cruste Nero di Troia della Puglia IGT 2006

 This brew is rich and intensely structured, with notes of violet, tobacco, a complex palate with mature tannins and a good finish. Available from www.Everywine.co.uk.

At my local, Al Bacon di Vino, in Campo Santa Margherita, the local market-stall owners have their first coffee at 8am, read the paper, glance at their stall ... wander away...then, wander back at about 10am for their first ombre, or glass of red wine. Then, at 12pm, they fight the hoards to get their hands on the steaming warm mozzarella in carrozza (sp?!), cod balls or sandwhiches with some more wine. This goes on all day until 5pm, when the hoards return again for their spritz and the stall-holders mingle with the students and the those walking past on their way home from work.

Here are a few more local secrets - I will keep adding to this. I have just returned from making the rounds!

Pantagruelica - Dorsoduro 2844, Campo San Banarba

This is a wonderful little deli across from the church with the Leonardo da Vinci museum. It is filled with the necessary luxuries and a small but perfect selection of wines.

Cantinone Schiavi (now known as Al Bottegon) Fondamente Nani) - Dorsoduro 992

Located on the canal facing the only gondola factory still remaining. This is both a great wine bar with snacks as well as an Italian wine shop. It is a favourite after-work hang-out for that daily Spritz.

Mille Vini - San Marco 5362

This is a serious wine shop offering wines from all over the world that transforms into a hub of evening social activity. It can get a bit touristy at night, so do your wine shopping during the day and then return later if you want to join in the fray.

Billa - several locations

This is one of Venice’s supermarket chains selling really inexpensive Italian wines, with an emphasis on local Veneto wines. The Zattere shop has a limited but satisfactory selection, but the one on the Lido’s main street is the best.   

Vinaria Nave de Oro - Dorsoduro 3664, Campo Santa Margherita (and many other campos)

These are fantastic little holes in the wall where the locals queu up with their empty plastic litre bottles and get them re-filled with local bulk wines stored in demi-johns in straw baskets .. for a couple of euros, if that. These local bulk wines all seem to taste the same - I cannot taste the difference between the Refosco and the Pinot Nero and the Cabernet Sauvignon - they are all a bit sweet -  but very quaffably so…

Vino Vino - San Marco 2007a, Calle del Cafetier

A great selection of Intalian, international and local wines .... many by the glass, and a great snack bar - usually better than their restaurant. 

(Taken from my chapter in Alsace contributed to : Great Wine Tours of the World, New Holland.

A land of idyllic medieval villages nestled cosily in voluptuous, fertile hillsides peppered with majestic church steeples, castle ruins, riotous flower displays and pastel-coloured timbered cottages – we are in Alsace. As if the vines were breathing life into the villages, the air is an intoxicating contradiction of spicy fruitiness and mineral freshness. With its magic trilogy of history, culture and gastronomy set against the vividly colourful backdrop of viticulture, Alsace makes a perfect picture.

Alsace is one of France’s oldest wine-producing regions. There were over 160 wine-growing districts by the end of the first millennium. During the Middle Ages, the wines were reputed to be among the best that Europe had to offer. Alsace has been passed back and forth between Germany and France for much of its existence. Despite this continual upheaval and the constant interruptions and destruction caused by war, the wine trade struggled on, and many of the most reputable names are long-established: Dopff (1574), Trimbach (1626), Hugel (1637).

Today, Alsace’s 119 wine-growing towns and villages produce more than 160 million bottles, of which 25 per cent are exported. Alsace produces 18 per cent of the total French still-white-wine output. Ninety-two per cent of Alsace and Alsace Grand Cru wines are dry, aromatic whites. Alsace’s appellations are unique in France because the wines are labelled according to grape variety as opposed to the vineyard. The vineyard or village is not mentioned unless the wine is a Grand Cru.

There are seven major grape varieties in Alsace: the Pinot Noir, and the Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Tokay Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muscat. The wines are then organised by quality levels and either belong to the AC Alsace appellation or to the AC Grand Cru appellation. The Crémant d’Alsace appellation is for sparkling wine produced in the same way as Champagne and mainly from Pinot Blanc. Then there are levels of ripeness; either Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) or Sélection de Grains Nobles (selection of noble grains). VT wines are made using very ripe grapes picked later than normal, usually in October. SGN wines have been made from individually selected botrytised grapes.

The subtly majestic Vosges mountain range protects the region from the ocean, creating a unique microclimate. Alsace is one of the driest parts of France and enjoys a semi-continental climate, which means lots of sun, heat and dryness – perfect for the slow, extended hang-time (ripening period) needed by the grapes. Even more importantly, Alsace’s white grape varieties do so well here because of the patchwork of granite, limestone, gneiss, schist and sandstone soils which impart acidity and structure to the wine. The vineyards are also planted on slopes rather than valleys, which provide good drainage and require them to grow deep roots. This also allows the vines to receive the right amount of sunshine at the right time of the day. 

While Alsace may appear traditional, it is one of the most forward-thinking regions in Europe. The 170 kilometre-long Route du Vin, at the base of the Vosges and alongside the banks of the Rhine River, is tourist-orientated without being kitsch or gaudy. The Alsatians are a neat, organised and orderly lot and every village has a tourist office, while the region itself has several award-winning websites and CD ROMs to guide visitors. The wineries are located in the villages themselves and are accessible by foot (most towns centres prohibit cars anyway). They are open to the public and offer tastings.

The spring months are a flurry of carnival parades, fancy-dress balls, classical and jazz concerts, flea markets and more. From April to August, every village has its own wine fair with dancing and copious consumption of the local wines and gastronomic specialities. In September, October and November, the Harvest Wine Festivals are held. Then from the 24^th of November to the 7^th of December, when the picture postcard villages are covered in a light blanket of snow, Alsace is transformed into a fairy-tale kingdom. More than fifty outdoor markets from Colmar to Strasbourg light up with illuminated decorations. Bakeries make mennele (little bread men), carollers stroll and sing. St Nicolas distributes goodies. There is nothing more enthralling than strolling down a cobbled lane sipping a grog, dodging snowflakes, and admiring the hand-made traditional toys and tree decorations for sale, to the sound of an outdoor classical concert.

Not to be missed in Alsace are the many regional specialities that so perfectly marry the wines. The fresh and fruity Sylvaner is ideal with the local salade Vosgienne (mushrooms, red potatoes, Munster cheese, cumin, smoked lardons, croutons and poached eggs) or with flammenküeche (a thin flat bread dough rectangle filled with lightly fried onions, cream and smoked bacon). Riesling, the pride of Alsace with its delicate fruit and subtle bouquet, is the perfect mate for choucroute (a dish of boiled meats, sauerkraut and potatoes) or with a savoury kougelhopf (a brioche filled with perhaps salmon and pike). The full-bodied aromatic Gewürztraminer is ideal with spicy exotic dishes, strong cheeses or the famous tarte aux pommes à l’alsacienne. The easy going and fresh Pinot Blanc goes with most anything, but is best with fish. The Tokay Pinot Gris falls somewhere between the steely crispness of a Riesling and the sweeter opulence of a Gewürztraminer. It’s a perfect match for the baeckaoffa (a slow-cooked marinated meat stew with onions, potatoes and seasonings). Alsatian Pinot Noir is not like the red Burgundies we know, it is lighter and fruitier, almost a rosé. It is especially good with the presskopf (a terrine of fresh wild salmon, lobster and oysters in a creamy sauce of caviar, parsley, tarragon and chives). The Crémant d’Alsace is light, refreshing and crisp. Like Champagne, it can take an entire meal from hors d’oeuvres to dessert.

If you have a week available, then start your tour in Strasbourg and head to Marlenheim – the northern gateway to the Route du Vin and work your way down to Thann, the southernmost gateway of the route. Both towns have information points that provide maps, guides and explanations of Alsace’s wine history, grapes and terroirs. If you have only a few days, then make Colmar your base and visit its surrounding villages. The best time to visit is between April and December.

Let’s start at Colmar, the capital of the Route du Vin. Must visit: the Foire Régionale in August, Bartholdi’s birthplace (built the Statue of Liberty in New York – 1866); the Bibliothèque (Library) housed in the Dominicans Convent; Underlinden Museum, the ‘Maison des Têtes’, Maison Pfister, Petit Venise Canal and Saint-Mattieu’s Temple. Must taste: Domaine Schoffit.

Next to Bergheim (20 km north of Colmar) home to the famous Gewürztraminer Grand Cru l’Altenberg de Bergheim. Must visit: the 14^th-century Gothic church, vineyard trail, 14^th-century upper gateway, Gewürztraminer feast in August. Must taste: Marcel Deiss, Gustave Lorentz, Spielmann.

Head down the road towards Colmar and  you arrive in Ribeauvillé, home to the Grands Crus vineyards of Geisberg and Osterberg.  Must visit: parish church of Saint Gregory the Great (13 to 15^th century), Town Hall with its jewellery museum, old towers with stork nests, remains of the ‘Three castles’ of Ribeaupierre (12 to 13^th century), Renaissance Fountain. Must taste: Henri Fuchs, F.E. Trimbach, Caves de Ribeauvillé, André Kientzler.

Next stop is Riquewihr (15 km north of Colmar), the best preserved medieval and Renaissance village and home to the Grands Crus Sporen and Schoenenbourg. Must visit: Grands Crus vineyard trail, 16^th-century fortifications and outer defences, 13^th-century Reichenstein castle ruins, Thieve’s Tower Museum with torture chambers. Must taste: Hugel et Fils, Dopff au Moulin, Engel, Mittnacht Klack.

Kaysersberg is next (8 km northwest from Colmar) on the tour. Famous for its medieval architecture and being the birthplace of Dr Albert Schweitzer (Nobel Peace Prize 1952). Must visit: Renaissance well, castle ruins, fortified bridge, and famous Christmas market. Must taste: Domaine Weinbach’s Riesling, Cave Kientzheim-Kayserberg, Roger Baradel’s smoked meats.

One of the best wine villages in Alsace is Ammerschwihr (8 kms north of Colmar). It has one Grand Cru,Wineck-Schlossberg which, with Kaefferkopf, produces superior Rieslings, Muscats and Gewürztraminers.  Must visit: vine garden, Vinogast celebration on 2^nd weekend of December, April Wine Fair, Saint-Martin’s church. Must taste: Martin Schaetzel.

Continuing down the Route du Vin, past Colmar, you arrive at Turkheim (7 kms south from Colmar). Considered to produce the best Pinot Noir in Alsace, it is home to the Grand Cru Brand, which is planted with Pinot Noir, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Must visit: Stork’s park, Sainte-Anne’s church with 1190 belfry porch, Renaissance Town Hall and Hôtel des Deux Clefs, the town crier at 10pm on summer evenings. Must taste: Cave de Turckheim, Zind-Humbrecht, Meyer.

Wintzenheim  (4 km west of Colmar) has one of the most famous terroirs in all of Alsace: Grand CruHengst, and is dominated by the Hohlandsbourg and Pflixbourg castles. Must visit: flower market on the first Saturday of May, Autumn Festival first weekend of October, Christmas market, scenic route of the Five Castles and remains of the Gallo-Roman villa (1^st to 4^th century) on the Hengst slope. Must taste: Josmeyer, Krick, Schoepfer.

At the foot of the Trois Châteaux (‘three castles’) you stumble upon Eguisheim (5 km south of Colmar), a medieval city built in three concentric circles around its castle. It is the birthplace of Pope Saint Leo IX in 1002. It is also home to the famous Grand Cru vineyards of Eichberg and Pfersigberg, both producing fantastic Gewürztraminers. Must visit: vineyard trail with guided visits and tastings from the tourism office, church with Roman tympanum, historic half-timbered houses, tithe manors, remains of octagonal Roman castle, wine growers’ festival on the fourth weekend of August. Must taste: Léon Beyer, Bruno Sorg.

Finally, Guebwiller (30 km south of Colmar) is the only Alsace commune with four Grands Crus: Kessler, Kitterlé, Saering and Spiegel. Must visit: 14^th-century church and former convent, now a musical centre, 12^th-century Saint-Léger’s church, wine Fair on Ascension Day. Must taste: Schlumberger.

THE CHIEF GRAPES

Gewürztraminer

Muscat d’Alsace

Pinot Blanc

Pinot Noir

Riesling

Sylvaner

Tokay Pinot Gris

LEADING WINES (APPELLATIONS)

AC. Alsace

AC. Alsace Grand Cru

Crémant d’Alsace

MAIN PRODUCERS

Cave Vinicole de Ribeauvillé, Ribeauvillé

Andre Kientzler, Ribeauvillé

Domaine du Clos Saint-Landelin, Rouffach

Kuentz Bas, Husseren-les-Châteaux

Léon Beyer, Enguisheim

Lucien Albrecht, Orschwihr

Marcel Deiss, Bergheim

Ostertag, Epfig

Paul Blanck, Kientzheim

Schlumberger, Guebwiller

Schoffit, Colmar

Weinbach-Colette Faller et ses fils, Kayserberg

Zind-Humbrecht, Turckheim

Dopff au Moulin, Riquewihr

Hugel & Fils, Riquewihr

Trimbach, Ribeauvillé

MAIN TOWNS

Strasbourg

Molsheim

Barr

Sélestat

Ribeauvillé

Colmar

Guebwiller

Thann

Mulhouse

AIRPORTS (connections from Paris)

Strasbourg–Entzheim Airport (15 km from Strasbourg) 

Colmar Airport (mostly private) 

Mulhouse–Bâle (Basel) Airport (25 km from Mulhouse) 

Train: Strasbourg, Colmar and Mulhouse

SUMMARY OF TOUR – Route du Vin

Bas-Rhin (Northern Alsace)

Merlenheim – Dahlenheim – Bergbieten – Wolxheim – Molsheim – Heiligenstein – Barr – Mittelbergheim – Andlau – Nothalten – Dambach-la-Ville

Haut-Rhin (Southern Alsace)

St-Hippolyte – Rodern – Bergheim – Ribeauvillé – Hunawihr – Riquewihr – Bennwihr - Mittelwihr – Kientzheim – Sigolsheim – Ammerschwihr – Ingersheim – Colmar - Turckheim – Wintzenheim – Wettolsheim – Eguisheim – Gueberschwihr – Pfaffenheim – Soultzmatt – Rouffach – Westhelten – Orschwihr – Guebwiller – Thann

Contact info:

Email: civa@civa.fr

www.vinsalsace.com

www.alsace-info.com

RESTAURANTS

Au Crocodile, Strasbourg (Tel: 33.03.88.32.13.02, E-mail: crocodile@relaischateaux.fr)

Restaurant Buerehiesel, Strasbourg (Tel: 33.03.88.45.56.65, E-mail: buerehiesel@relaischateaux.fr

Meistermann, Colmar (Tel: 33.3.89.41.65.64), www.meistermann.com

L’Auberge au Zannacher, Ribeauvillé (Tel.: 33.03.89.73.60.77)

L’Auberge de l’Ill, Illhausern (tel.: 33.03.89.71.89.00

HOTEL/RESTAURANTS

La Cheneaudière, Colroy-La –Roche (Tel: 33.03.88.97.61.64, Email: cheneaudiere@relaischateaux.fr

Abbaye La Pommeraie, Selestat (Tel: 33.03.88.92.07.84, Email:  pommeraie@relaischateaux.fr

Le Marechal, Colmar (Tel.: 03.89.41.43.07)

Château de Barembach, Colmar (Tel.: 03.88.97.97.50)

Amarone is not the name of a place. Nor is it the name of a grape. Amarone is a wine-making method, a style of wine.  Amarone, once tasted, is forever inscribed on one’s palate, and the memory of it …variations on a theme of spiced cherries, smoky plums, chalky mineral, and moist, dark earth … forever haunts the mind like an unobtainable lover: impenetrable and indecipherable… yet intoxicating.

Amarone is a style of the dry red wine from Veneto’s Valpolicella. Amarone, Recioto and Ripasso are all styles of Valpolicella, and are all issued from the same grapes: Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella. The variable is the degree to which the grapes are allowed to dry before being pressed: so, its sweetness. Unadulterated Valpolicella is the driest style, the starting point, and is light-bodied, zesty with a fresh grape flavour and is meant to be drunk young.  But when the same grapes undergo the air-drying method or appassimento, usually on straw mats for several months, until they are nearly shrivelled to raisins, we are rewarded with Amarone, a highly alcoholic, heavy, complex, black, almost bitter, velvety concoction. It needs years to fully mature, so buy the newer vintages now for cellaring. The great appeal of Amarone is its double personality. It toys between the dry and the sweet, the masculine and the feminine, the powerful and the elegant… always enticing us back for more.

TWO TO TRY

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Doc “Punta di Villa”, Roberto Mazzi, 2004

This is a traditional, elegant interpretation with a restrained approach – no flashy fruit. It builds up slowly and explodes on the palate and is not dominated by oak.www.grossiwines.co.uk £31 approx

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Doc Il Bosco¸ Cesari¸2005

Also in a classic style, with a very grown-up and sophisticated veneer which belies its decadent opulence. www.fiandaca.co.uk  £28 approx

 LJ Johnson-Bell

 Crisp, personal, solid Pinot Blancs… Chardonnays with the muscle and salty earthiness of a top Meursault… aromatic Gewürztraminers that toy between the sharp and the sensual… and Sauvignons that are explosively fruity and complex …  You would forgive me for thinking that I was in France. But no, I am in Alto Adige.  And there is another surprise to come: the Pinot Neros (Pinot Noir). They are divine, and devoid of that medicinal, metallic retro-olfactive with which so many basic red Burgundies can be marked.  These are fresh, elegant, and ooze a velvety smoothness of plums and warm earth.

Alto Adige, or Südtirol, is one of Italy’s smallest regions (only providing .7% of Italy’s total production) and can boast the fact that 98% of its wines are of the DOC quality category. There is archaeological evidence of viticulture here that pre-dates the Romans and today there are 12,500 acres of vineyards. Almost 75% of these are owned by cooperatives, in which, typically, each of the hundreds of members might cultivate a plot of less than 2.5 acres. Cooperatives often have a negative connotation in the wine world, but not here. Here, the concept works as it is meant to and produces high quality, terroir-driven wines.

Nestled in the slopes of the snow-covered Southern Alps, Alto Adige has been home to the noble Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes for over a hundred years. The diverse soils and altitudes welcomed them a place alongside their already established Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Veltliner, Riesling and their famously gorgeous native red grape, Lagrein. Protected by the Dolomites, the vineyards’ altitudes range from 750 – 3250 ft above sea level and the rich soils are a geographical rainbow of dolomitic rock, fluvial deposits, porphyry, moraine debris, volcanic deposits and slate-primitive rock.

Couple this unique climate and exposition with the quality wine-making techniques these producers embrace, and we are presented with consistent and powerfully elegant, grown-up wines that rival the French greats at half the price. And as Burgundy is being hit by hotter growing seasons and we are seeing more and more boiled Pinot (heat erases any varietal cahracter and terroir influence), the cool, refreshing Alpine climate produces a more expressive Pinot Noir.  I, for one, shall be stocking my cellars with some Pinot Nero. Unlike Burgundy, where quality can be a bit hit-and-miss for even the “experts” and quality seems to only be assured by paying exorbitant prices, the Pinot Nero seems to have found the opportunity to express the best facets of  its unique and elegant personality, here in the Alto Adige.  As one of the charming producers quipped to me as I swooned over his Sauvignon: “Who needs France?”

Some favourites:

1. Pinot Bianco 2009, Cantina Andriano

From Astrum Wine Cellars, www.astrumwinecellars.com

Cantino Andriano was founded in 1893 and is the oldest wine producing cooperative in the region. Situated in one of the cooler areas of Alto Adige, yet protected to the West by Mount Gantkofel, they produce elegant, well-built wines made for cellaring. The Pinot Bianco is unoaked, with an approachable, fruity nose. The mouth is well-balanced with solid extracts and a fresh and lively acidity, leading to a persistent and elegant finish. Beautifully made.

2. Terlano Sauvignon Quartz 2008, Cantina Terlano

From Astrum (see above)

Cantina Terlano has been producing wines since 1893 and their wines owe their distinction to the high mineral content of the soils: the vineyards lie on a red porphyry base of volcanic rock with large mineral crystal deposits. This Sauvignon is true to its name (quartz!). It has a steely, mineral freshness carrying a lush, fleshy body of apricots. It is not a ubiquitous caricature of the sauvignon grape: there is no fake vegetal edge or superficial herbiness to it, screaming, “I am Sauvignon” as do some of the New World models. There is just straightforward, solid fruit and structure: Sauvignon as it is meant to be. Their Lagrein Riserva Porphyr 2007 is also unmissable.

3. Gewürtztraminer 2009, Erste + Neue

From New Generation Wines Ltd., www.newgenerationwines.comA long-running cooperative with a tradition of single-vineyard expertise, this Gewürztraminer is an elegant and original expression of this grape: a good balance between crisp minerality and unctuous floral and spicy elegance. It has all of the hallmarks of the traditional Alsatian version of the grape, yet at the same time imparts another dimension to the model – a distinctly Alto Adige-dimension – quite cheeky and personable.

4. Pinot Nero Mezzan 2008, Erste + Neue

From New Generation Wines Ltd (as above)

The Pinot Noir from this cooperative was a real find. It is approachable without being sweet or boring: there is definite power and structure here, but very fluidly and elegantly expressed. A violet nose takes you into velvety textured body and a good finish. The tannins are well integrated and the overall effect is that one is drinking a very expensive red Burgundy – a Volnay …

5. Pinot Nero Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano 2007, Tenuta J. Hofstätter

From FortyFive 10°

masi@fortyfive10.eu

 This family-owned estate was founded in 1907. The family is quick to point out that the nearest town is Bolzano, which lies on the same line of latitude as Mâcon in Burgundy and that they have made Pinot Nero their specialty. They have two Pinot Neros, their Pinot Nero Meczan, whose 2009 was round, peppery and powerful, and the Barthenau, which was simply stunning. The nose was so perfumed and yet the mouth was restrained, direct, fresh and tightly made… saving itself for the even better times to come… to cellar.

6. Pinot Nero Ludwig 2007, Elena Walch from Bancroft Wine Ltd., www.bancroftwines.com

 Elena Walch, an ex-architect, married into a prominent wine-producing family in Tramin/Termeno and turned to wine-making in 1985. Her wines have earned several of the coveted Three Glassses awards from the Gambero Rosso. Her Pinot Nero Ludwig is gorgeously well-made.  Aged for 14 months in half new oak and half old oak, its power is discreetly brought to the surface by subtle tannins and lively acidity. Perfumed, complex, elegant, it is drinkable now, but worth cellaring.

7. Pinot Nero Precios 2007, Josef Niedermayr Estate

From Passione Vino, www.passionevino.co.uk

 Stunning. It opens with an earthy mineral-ness evoking the vineyard’s chalky soils. The nose is intense with dark berries, spice and violets. The body is textured and complex and the finish is fresh and long. Everything is here, from start to finish. This is a cooperative situated near Girlan, which is has been a family business since 1852: they manage their own vineyards as well as monitor and work with other winegrowers.

LJ Johnson-Bell

The Gusbourne Estate was first mentioned in 1410, when John de Gosborne’s will was filed. Today, Andrew Weeber, a retired South African oral surgeon, now living in Geneva and Kent, is the proud owner. His Vineyard Manager is Jon Pollard, who studied oenology at Plumpton College. This is a very new estate. In fact, the word “new” applies to everything within our sight as well as the philosophy behind the wines. Mr. Weeber is 100% modern and has every winery, macinery gadget that you can buy, and like a boy with his new toys, he proudly displays them. They started the plantings in 2001 and their wines were launched in 2010, to much acclaim. For the moment, the wines are being elaborated at Ridgeview, as there is as yet, no winery. But I saw the plans for the upcoming winery and visitors’ centre, and we are in for a treat.

Because of all of this “newness” and the fact that the wine is made elsewhere (albeit, placed in the vey able hands of Ridgeview!), I was not expecting very much, but these wines were a fabulous surprise and I very much look forward to visiting Gusbourne again to better stock my cellar. Mr. Weeber is a highly entertaining, ambitious and passionate man and his drive is clearly expressed in all that he does. The wines are well-made and mirror his multi-faceted and explosive personality.

Gusbourne makes 3 sparkling wines only, using the Champagne grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier: the Brut Reserve, the Blanc de Blanc and the Sparkling Rose. The estate is sited on the low, south-facing slopes of the escarpment at Appledore.

2007 Blancs de Blanc

Nose is clean, acidic and fresh. Body is lively yet corpulent – good finish, very nice.

I kept going back to this one – my favourite. It just really opened up and revealed a yeasty toastiness – very refined, flavourful and well-balanced.

Sparkling Rose

Ok – nose is good, notes of spice and summer berries. Palate is well-structured with good acidity. Finish a bit short.

2007 Brut Reserve

A fabulously grown-up nose of summer blossoms and fruit stone-pits…leading to a firm but fleshy and fruity body and a clean, persistent finish. Lovely.

2010 Pinot Noir

This is not an available wine, but as I am on the hunt for still Pinot Noir, he showed us one he has made. I am so glad that he did. The nose is lovely. Not at all a typical Pinot Noir, but it is really interesting - has a peppery finish.

Gusbourne Estate
Appledore
Kent, TN26 2BE
England

+44 12 33 758 666

For general enquiries:

www.gusbourne.com  

HUSH HEATH ...

If you are ever in doubt as to why Kent is called “The Garden of England”, visit Hush Heath. We were transported into one of those picture-perfect images on a biscuit tin. Our magical tour was led by the winemakers Owen Elias and Victoria Ash, Rupert Taylor, the Sales Manager, as well as the owner, Richard Balfour-Lynn.

The estate is absolutely stunning: apple tree orchards, manicured Italian gardens, vineyards, oast houses … all wrapped up in a violently lush landscape of wisteria and roses. Balfour-Lynn is clear that his sole objective is to produce an English Pink Sparkling Wine to rival the finest Champagne, and this he does. It is a small and private production: No winery visits, no gift shops or tea rooms: just his wine … Balfour.

He rightly repeats the fact that Kent is a fruit-growing region, and adds that the New World cannot make sparkling wines properly: it is too hot. Whereas, our climate provides the crucial acidity. But, he feels that Champagne has done a lot to tarnish their image and wishes to distinguish the English sparkling wines: our acidity is different to that of France’s. His award-winning sparkling wine is thus a non-malolactic wine, left sur lies for 18 months and it is all about the acidity. His wines are young and fresh as he combines the best of the Old World with the New. He revels in the climatic diversity served up by Mother Nature, as he wishes to avoid homogenous, “reliable” wines.

2010 Nannette’s Chardonnay
I know that he said that he only does the Balfour, and when I visited, this was the case. He allowed us to taste this Chardonnay, which at the time was not commercialised, as he wishes to keep production restrained. But I have seen that it is now available to buy on the web-site, so you must do so.

The wine has a lovely nose. You can smell the extracts: unfiltered, rustic, meaty extracts that give this wine a complex structure yet at the same time, a refined expression. Chardonnay, so often bastardised around the globe, takes on an elegantly individual hue, here, in this garden of Kent.

2010 Balfour Brut Rosé

75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay. Lovely nose, perfumes of rosemary and spices, leading to a fruity, rose petal palate with firm, persistent mousse and a clean, acidic and fresh finish. Delicious.

Richard Balfour-Lynn

Hush Heath

Five Oak Lane

Junction of Snoad Lane

Marden, Kent

TN12 0HX

Tel: 01622 832 794

winery@hushheath.com