Rocca Alata Amarone 2014
Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 8:23PM
Linda Johnson-Bell

Rocca Alata Amarone della Valpolicella 2014

I have decided, after yet another spell spent in Venice, the place I go to for succour and inspiration, that life is too short to not drink Amarone, and only Amarone. The problem though, is that this nectar, like all things that are too good to be true, has fallen prey to the modern trend of “internationalism”.  I am not the only follower to notice that they are becoming lighter and drier – attempting to fit the mould of something more “understandable” for the consumer. The pull to go “modern” and the supposed fear of remaining “traditional” is too strong. But the beauty of Amarone has always been its defiant quirkiness and uniqueness. The call of modernity is a false friend. There is no other wine like it – and unfortunately, many producers are cutting corners. And frankly, with the new wave of consumers who don’t want to spend the money, who don’t’ appreciate or care about the time and effort that goes into this wine style, and who blindly follow wine pundits and their star ratings, I, too, might give up and just play the game. But I hope that this will not be the case. I consulted my Veneto guru, Patricia Guy, THE expert of all things Amarone … and she concurs, and tells me that she noticed this trend far before I did.

This one is well-made … from the Cantina di Soave, a cooperative. Aromatic, but light-weight. The body that should be there, is not. The nose is pleasant but doesn’t smell of its iconic drying process -  there should be smoky, sultry, incense-like layers and this is just fruity – clean and fresh, but nothing more. The palate is mid-weight and the finish is short. Amarone is meant to make you swoon … to seduce you and transport you. Alas, this one leaves my feet firmly on the ground. Come on, guys. 

Article originally appeared on The Wine Lady & The Wine and Climate Change Institute (http://thewinelady.com/).
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